so i am in a place that is somehow called oudtshoorn. i love the afrikaner language, it is like german except way funnier to listen to, it is hard to explain, but if you ever hear it you will love it. i would most liken it to listening to siegfried and roy talking excitedly, except it is everyone doing it. hilarious.

i am sorry if on my last post, which i intended to be a heartfelt thought piece on africa, was a little disjointed. while i wrote it, the aforementioned homosexual concierge at my hostel very graphically conversed with his ex-boyfriend about the good and bad times of their relationship, which then gave way to an even graphic-er (?) deconstruction of the concierge's more recent sexual adventures with members of what i think sounded like a travelling circus. sigh. my apologies.

heading home in 6 days, which is pretty unbelievable after over 3 months away. south africa has really blown me away, i guess partially because i wasn't expecting that much from it in terms of physical beauty, which is pretty stupid since it may be the most picturesque country i've been to yet. However, the difference between this country and every other one we have been to is blatant. Developed extensively, highrise buildings in the cities, air conditioning, fast food places, etc... Even the corrugated tin roof and cardboard houses are substantially nicer, although I suppose all of that shouldnt be surprising. We spent a day in Kruger National Park, which is normally a highlight for other people, but instead for me was very uneventful and very wet. after getting the hell out of johannesburg, we took a bus south to durban, the 3rd largest city in south africa, on the coast. while there i got to see a movie (!), casino royale, which was great, despite the hilarious siegfried and roy-esque banter from behind us. we spent half a day getting toured around against our wishes by a former teacher from the uk, who evidently went on vacation and never went home; i think, against the wishes of the owners of the hostel, who he no longer pays yet continues to live with in exchange for these awkward tours for unwilling patrons. so we went to a water park without paying, snuck into a restaurant to view the fish and sharks in its water tank, and drove to a free art gallery. evidently he doesnt like spending money, which he spent the entire ride bragging about.

since then, we have been taking the bus along the famous garden route, along the coast of south africa. we spent a few days in one small town, hiking around the tsitsikamma national park and found it eerily similar to bc. for some reason, atleast 3 different towns have found it prudent to place in huge letters on their maps, and on signs everywhere in the city, directions to their very own "GIANT TREE,". so i urge everyone to come here and see these very normal-sized trees, apparently it would make the people here happy.

i recommend reading the zanzibar chest by aidan hartley, one of the best books ive read in ages. we head to mossel bay tomorrow, where we get to stay in an abandoned train hostel thingy. the town is also famous for having the first ever post office in southern africa, which is apparently a tree as well. if this doesnt sound exciting, i agree with you, but im thinking capetown should be a good time. hope all is well muchlovedunc